Pass it on: Coaching with compassion, flexibility and lived experience

About the author

Juan Avendano is a trustee on the NICAS Board, and coaches, mentors, and consults. Former GB Climbing Development Squad coach and Performance Coach for Erin McNeice, Juan has over two decades of experience with young climbers. A journalist and ethnographer, he now works in Community Mental Health Teams in the NHS. As a father of neurodivergent twins, Juan was diagnosed with ADHD as an adult.

Juan Avendano

Reflecting on Neurodivergent Opportunities in Sport

by Juan Avendano

On 20 March 2025, the “Neurodivergent Opportunities in Sport” webinar, hosted by ADHD Alliance Founder Daley Jones, brought together a panel of experts to discuss how neurodivergent individuals can thrive in sports. The session covered issues from coaching and inclusion to career paths, offering valuable insights into how sport can be a space where neurodivergent athletes are empowered. As a neurodivergent climbing coach and NICAS trustee, the session gave me plenty to think about in relation to the wider climbing community.

The webinar was split into three segments: coaching and mentoring; inclusion; and the broader benefits of sport for neurodivergent athletes. For me, the coaching discussion really stood out. It focused on the idea that neurodivergent people benefit most from coaching that is flexible and responsive to their needs – this would include coaches and mentors who also experience differences in how we learn, process information, and relate to others.

Coaching, Mentoring, and Athlete Development: Key Takeaways

One of the main points in the discussion was that coaching should be a mix of structure and adaptability, with an aim of learning through play. For neurodivergent learners, having a consistent environment is important, but it’s equally crucial to remain open to change the approach if something isn’t working. I’ve learned this firsthand as a coach: the goal is to keep trying new things until you find what works best for both athlete (or team) and coach. That’s part of creating an adaptable environment where athletes feel safe to experiment, managing the fear of failure and performance anxiety. Every session must be planned to be fun, progressive and a little bit challenging.

This idea of flexibility also ties into how coaches can create spaces for athletes to learn in their own way and at their own pace of skill acquisition. Instead of expecting the same results from everyone, we need to be open to finding individual solutions that work for each person – this is also known as the person-centred approach.

In climbing, that might mean adjusting the way we approach skills or movements, depending on the athlete’s preferences or needs: breaking down skills into individual components and considering how “off the wall” activities (such as games) could aid the learning and development of skills. It’s about being willing to make changes, even if they don’t always work perfectly the first time.

Juan Avendano bouldering

Self-Compassion and Boundaries: The Role of the Coach

Another important idea that came up in the webinar was the power of self-compassion. Mandeep Ranger, Lead Clinical Psychologist in autism services, spoke about how coaches should encourage athletes to be kind to themselves, especially when things don’t go as planned. This made me reflect on my own coaching style. It’s not just about teaching climbing techniques; it’s about making sure athletes understand that it’s okay to struggle. They don’t need to be perfect — what matters is progress, not perfection. It’s worth saying the same principle applies to coaches: despite the perceived pressure to produce results, to have all the answers and be a perfect role model, we must remember to be kind to ourselves and embrace the process of learning and developing both our hard and soft skills, every time we interact with a client.

It’s also very important to consider boundaries in all coaching/athlete interventions. There’s a big difference between being a coach and being a mentor, and that distinction was another interesting point from the webinar. Coaches may focus on skill development and performance, whereas mentoring provides long-term support that extends beyond the sport itself. As coaches, we need to recognise when our role goes beyond teaching climbing and into helping athletes navigate the wider challenges in their lives. This is especially true for neurodivergent athletes, who may need additional support in areas outside the gym.

In clinical settings, we take advantage of multiple types of supervision to regularly reflect about our professional practice, discuss complex cases with peers, identify training needs, and also to rant when it’s appropriate. When I was developing my skills as a climbing coach, managing and growing a youth squad into a performance team, every discussion I had with my peers, the ideas we tried together and fed back to each other, were definitely part of my success. Peer learning should be valued as much as formal training, therefore I would encourage junior coaches to share their knowledge and seek supervision/mentoring from a more experienced professional at all stages in their career.

At this point in my career, if I didn’t have multiple spaces to reflect and develop my experience with peers and other professionals, I would probably feel very lost and isolated – resulting in losing motivation and ultimately burnout. In my personal life, I am grateful to have found a coach with lived experience in neurodiversity, who I can work with specifically on understanding my version of ADHD and how to demonstrate the same care and love I have for others to my own self.

Inclusion: Taking Action, Not Just Making Policies

The concept of “Ownership of Inclusion” was the subject of the second session. Inclusion in sport shouldn’t just be about writing policies – it’s about actively creating environments where everyone feels welcome. It’s about coaches, athletes and communities coming together to find practical ways to make sport more accessible. Inclusion is a continuous process that requires everyone’s input and commitment.

I understand reasonable adjustments should benefit everyone, not just a specific group of people. A climbing wall designed to improve accessibility (e.g. ramps, lifts, air filters, adaptable lighting, noise and temperature control) will likely work better for everyone, whether that’s people with mobility challenges, parents with strollers, or simply those who prefer a quieter environment. Reasonable adjustments should be seen as a way to improve the experience for all, not as something separate or ‘retrofit’ to the existing space.

Shortly after the webinar, I came across an article from ADDitude Magazine that provided a quote that perfectly complements the webinar discussion:

“Individuals with ADHD should track the environmental factors that turn the volume up or down on their symptoms. They can intentionally design their lives to fit with their environment by seeking out jobs, educational paths, people, activities, and lifestyles that accentuate their strengths.”
(Source: ADHD’s Vanishing (and Reappearing) Act)

This really resonated with me because it’s something I try to apply to my own life: it was not difficult for me to become a “gym rat”, because climbing was so overwhelmingly exciting. Being on my feet the entire day – focusing exclusively on my special interest – felt natural and comfortable, even if I lived in dusty, smelly, busy and noisy environments. When I shifted my life to offices and consulting rooms, with minimal distractions, I had to learn how to manage my ADHD symptoms because the environment felt extremely alien to me.

The idea that we can design environments that play to our strengths is key in not just personal growth, but also in making sport more inclusive. By identifying what works for each person, whether it’s in coaching or general environment design, we create spaces where people feel empowered to thrive. When we actively make these adjustments, it benefits everyone involved.

Robust policies are crucial to empower communities and regulate professional practice. All stakeholders should be involved in co-creating, implementing and reviewing these policies, for the benefit of everyone. Because every experience should be considered and discussed, we must always include the voices of the entire community: from climbing businesses to athletes and carers. When we understand the needs of the community, we can then provide inclusive services and thrive together.

Juan Avendano bouldering in a NICAS tshirt

Transferable Skills: How Climbing Helps in All Areas of Life

A key takeaway from the webinar was the idea of transferable skills. While climbing is an individual activity, the skills athletes develop — confidence, discipline, and the ability to assess risk — are valuable far beyond the climbing wall. These skills help neurodivergent athletes build self-esteem and confidence, which can carry over into their personal and professional lives.

For neurodivergent athletes, especially those who struggle with traditional environments, climbing can be a space where we develop a sense of control and mastery. The beauty of climbing is that it’s a challenge you can take on at your own pace. There’s no pressure to compete with others — it’s about setting personal goals and building confidence as you work through them. One day you could be matching plastic holds on a climbing gym, the next day you might be hiking up a trail to a beautiful crag where a dream route appears in view.

Building a Community: The Social Side of Climbing

Finally, the social aspect of climbing was another theme that came up in the webinar. Although climbing is often thought of as an individual pursuit, it’s also incredibly social. The shared experience of climbing builds trust and encourages teamwork, and for neurodivergent individuals, this can be especially beneficial.

The climbing community provides a space where participants can connect with others who share their passion for the sport, breaking down barriers and helping build lasting relationships. As a coach, I’ve seen how powerful this sense of community can be. It allows athletes to feel they belong, which is so important for neurodivergent individuals who might struggle with social interactions in other settings. The climbing wall or crag could become a place where everyone can communicate, collaborate and support each other in their physical and mental wellbeing.

Conclusion: Continuing the Journey of Inclusion in Climbing

Insights from the “Neurodivergent Opportunities in Sport” webinar have provided me with a lot of food for thought. For climbing coaches, it’s essential to reflect on how we approach inclusion, not just in terms of adapting sessions but also in how we build a culture of inclusion within the sport. We need to make sure our coaching practices are flexible and person-centred, and that we’re creating environments where neurodivergent athletes feel welcome, supported, and empowered.

Ultimately, our goal as coaches is to create a space where all athletes, regardless of ability, can experience personal growth, social connection, and lifelong physical activity through climbing.

By continuing to build inclusive programmes like NICAS Ascend, we can help ensure that climbing remains a sport for everyone, providing opportunities for neurodivergent individuals to thrive.

Juan Avendano coaching a lead climber while belaying.

Useful Links

  • ADDitude Magazine – Expert advice, tools, and support for people with ADHD, autism, and learning differences—plus resources for parents, teachers, and professionals.
  • ADHD Alliance – Support and advocacy for emergency services staff with ADHD and their families, aiming to help individuals with ADHD navigate their challenges and learn to live with ADHD.
  • Neurodiverse Sport – The UK’s leading not-for-profit organisation championing neuroinclusion in sport. They provide training, resources and support to help clubs, coaches and organisations create environments where neurodivergent people can thrive—from grassroots to elite level.
  • Neurodiversity Celebration Week – A global initiative challenging stereotypes and celebrating the strengths of neurodivergent people. It offers events, resources, and training to help schools, workplaces, and organisations create more inclusive, empowering environments.